One Month Down, Three To Go

Been ultra consumed with planning my island-hopping trip next week, so I apologize for the delayed post. After lapping up street-vendor dinner delicacies on Friday night, we blasted some tunes and crushed some 75 cent coolers in one of the girls' rooms. Then another great evening was spent visiting at Mr. Ting's over a bottle of blended whiskey... never thought I'd learn to enjoy it, but I surprise myself every once in a while. Hitched yet another free ride, but in the back of a pickup truck this time, downtown to Post Laser Disc, the main 'farang' (foreigner) hangout.  

Packed with loads of randoms to mingle with, the hours and drinks wasted away. The music enticed us onto the dance floor eventually, ridding us of the little energy we had left after another week of teaching.

I've also been prepping to test my students for the first time since I've been their instructor, quite a daunting task. Not completely sure if they're absorbing everything I tell them, their results reflect directly upon me... scary! But to my relief, the first day of testing went very well with some students receiving almost perfect scores... phew! When the writing component is completed by each of my twelve classes, next up is the speaking component. I definitely have more confidence in this module, so hopefully their grades prove me true. Wish me luck! (and I'll be wishing my students luck in the meantime haha)

Penang Visa Run

A 4-hour minibus ride was all it took to get down to Penang, the food capital of Malaysia, this past weekend. Arriving late afternoon, I escaped before dark to explore the quaint nooks and crannies of Georgetown, the capital city, spotting numerous photo-worthy attractions. Little India was very authentic and had many intricate temples, including the one below, Mahamariamman. 

Living true to its name, I enjoyed a fantastic Indian meal at one of the top five restaurants in all of Penang, Jaya, for ridiculously cheap. It lured me back a few times throughout the weekend, the staff actually getting to know me. I decided to venture out the next day to the other side of the island, to the National Park to hit up the best-kept-secret beach, Pantai Kerachut. It took my breath away, literally, after hiking for an hour through the Malaysian jungle. The water was incredibly warm, the sand was to die for, and not one cloud hid the sun. With all of the perfect conditions, I stayed the entire day and was the last one to leave. I could have stayed there for the rest of my life!

A trek back through the National Park brought me to the Butterfly Farm, the first of its kind on our planet. With hundreds of different species inhabiting this live museum, I have never had the chance to get as close as I did to these stunning insects. There were other creatures as well, including frogs, turtles, lizards, beetles, snakes, spiders and weird bugs. I'd typically flee after spotting most of these, but since they were enclosed I had the opportunity to get up close and personal.

The next day, I made my way to Penang Botanic Gardens to view its wide array of flora and fauna. Covering around 30-hectares of land, I wandered through various different collections of species including the Japanese Garden.

I was surprised to encounter a very aggressive monkey along the way, because the group at the entrance were very friendly. This one charged me for no reason and I had to yell and swing my bag to keep it from full-on attacking me. Luckily a man nearby threw a rock at the rascal and it finally backed off, but I decided to get out of there anyway. I had previously planned to hike from the Botanic Gardens to the top of Penang Hill, so after what seemed like a million steps I had made it to the water station. After prepping for the next lag of the journey, I ran into another group of monkeys. Hesitant to walk any further, a kind man on a motorbike came with perfect-timing to my rescue and chauffered me the rest of the way. Finally reaching the top, I took in the astonishing views of Penang Island and Butterworth in the distance.

Tramming back down, I randomly came across Bats' Cave Temple and was startled when I discovered the name was actually accurate. Then I meandered to the beautiful Kek Lok Si, the largest Buddhist Temple in all of Southeast Asia. As you can imagine, scouring the grounds took until sunset, but every corner I turned there was something even more captivating. Finally arriving at the most ornate room, I was right on time to see the monks performing a daily ritual. After observing for an extensive period, I gained a new appreciation for their practices. It really is the Temple of Supreme Bliss.

With only a few hours to tour the next day before heading home, I went to the famous Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. Fascinated by its 38 elaborate rooms, 5 granite-paved courtyards, 7 staircases and 220 windows, I realized why Oscar-winning movies have been filmed there and its been featured in many TV programs. Lastly, I took a stroll along the Esplanade to Fort Cornwallis, housing a gunpowder bunker, a chapel and a lighthouse. With canons surrounding the fortress, it was intended as a defence against the pirates being the first thing built when the British arrived. The history, tradition and nature of Penang all blend into a rich cultural tapestry, and I now see why it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mr. Ting's

Last night brought my best experience with Thai people thus far, at Mr. Ting's. This little hole-in-the-wall shop around the corner from my friends' apartment sells really cheap, well everything. After hitting up a street vendor for some delicious som tam, spicy papaya salad, we were eager to really begin our weekend.

Mr. Ting welcomed us with a "What ya drinkin' tonight?" and his wife with a big smile on her face. Some Thais you meet aren't so fond of foreigners, but those attempting to make a profit couldn't be nicer. As soon as we sat down, Mr. Ting's friends pulled up their seats and immediately started to chat with us. Half of the time you have no idea what Thais are saying, but they think you do because they're speaking English. With strongly accented pronunciation and emphasis being put on all the wrong sounds, a full conversation is a struggle. However, as soon as you connect on the simplest level, even if it's just one word, it's magic to them. It's hilarious to see their faces light up as you finally understand and respond to what they're saying, so they gain a real confidence. After hours of processing their broken English over drinks (a slight variation of what we do all day with our students), they took a liking to us. One of Mr. Ting's friends, Mr. Tang (lol), offered to drive us to our next destination, Nectar. I've only paid for transportation maybe twice out of around a dozen times, so this wasn't new to me, but was to the others. Thais are just so friendly that they'd rather have you converse with them in English than have you go off and pay for a taxi. Mr. Tang even changed the radio station to an English channel for us, which is a rare but very nice touch. Arriving at the club, no cover, no lines and $8 litres of hards, the place was insanely packed and a tireless band was performing on stage. Working our way through the crowds while groovin' to the tunes brought back bittersweet memories of my weekends with the ladies in Victoria. Miss you girls!

Wknd 2

With my Tourist Visa expiring soon, I had to start getting my documents ready for an Immigrant-B Visa. After obtaining doctors notes, passport photos and my TEFL certificate, the only thing left was my Bachelor's Degree. Having UVic mail my Certificate of Degree Completion over a month ago to the wrong address (damn Thai street names), I had to scout it out and make my way. Meeting the assistant manager of another english teaching company, I finally had everything gathered. After a few beers and hours of chatting, she invited me out to a bar for some live music. Not wanting to be rude since she had just offered me a job for next semester, I agreed. I was actually already planning on going to Co-Art to meet the girls for one of their birthdays lol, there's only so many good spots for cheap drinks and great tunes. The awesome set-list, impressive performance and tons of foreigners kept me there until 3:30am, practically ruining my Saturday (but no regrets).

Yet another elephant taking a midnight cruise

Sunday was then the day for crossing a few things off my list, exploring Hat Yai Nai and Gim Yong markets, as well as checking out the third largest reclining Buddha in the entire world. After scanning basically every stall in both of the markets, I made it to the incredible Wat Hat Yai Nai.

Laying 35 metres long, 15 metres tall and 10 metres wide, my jaw literally dropped as I have never seen anything like it. Able to go inside of the Buddha, there is a shrine and mausoleum with hundreds of lockers in the walls interred with the remains of dead people.

A little creeped out and absolutely starving, I went over to where everybody else was eating (the only way to be safe in Thailand). After enjoying whatever they brought me since there was no menu, I attempted to pay but they wouldn't take a baht. To my surprise, I realized this is common in temples as monks are permanent residents. Feeling like I'd stolen, I didn't mind spending $1 to get a motorbike ride back to town as my walk there had left me drenched in sweat. Strolling through a couple more blocks of the market, I came across my version of fruit heaven. Purchasing enough to feed an entire family for a week but only a few days at the rate I go through it, I am ready to begin another week of teaching.

Loy Gratong

Thursday night was the popular festival of Loy Gratong (floating lanterns), the most romantic and picturesque event of the year. It always takes place on the night of the full moon of the twelfth lunar month. Most Thais create their gratongs out of banana leaves and flowers, with added incense, candles and/or money as offerings. Some add fingernail clippings and/or hair as symbols of shedding the bad parts of themselves, grudges, angers and defilements so that they can start life afresh on a better foot. Many Thais believe that floating a raft will bring good luck as a result of honouring the Goddess of the Water, Phra Mae Khongkha. Meanwhile, hundreds of lanterns drift into the night sky, in the hopes that misfortune flies away with them. 

The full moon & floating lanterns

Any body of water is suitable to set your gratong afloat, so myself and a group of English girls I've become friends with headed to Hat Yai Municipality Park. There were hundreds of people crowding the walking paths clutching their gratongs among other purchases from the many vendors. Stages were set-up everywhere with various performers displaying their talents, which were quite entertaining to say the least. We witnessed couple after couple setting gratongs off together, holding hands and making wishes. It's believed that those who do this will remain in love forever. 

Also prominent were little kids bursting with excitement, their expressions priceless. The preparations begin early in the day, if not the day before, and all sorts of attractions fill the city. It's so unusual for me to see elephants just casually cruising down the street, but another thing about Thai culture that's so cool.

Random Day Off

The 30 Year Anniversary of my school meant a day off for me! Almost. I was required to attend in the morning to play word games with the kids for an hour, but then I decided to wander around the festivities for a little while. One of the rooms contained a display of creative art made by the students, some of which was actually quite impressive! I presume it was girls who used recycled materials to produce figure-flattering gowns, and boys who built sculptures completely out of toothpicks. One table in particular held a large array of scrapbooks filled with intricately fascinating drawings. It wasn't until this event that I realized how talented many of our students are, in a wide variety of areas. To my surprise, a few of my male students were members of a dance group that, to my dismay, performed later in the day.

After the monks had completed their chants with the teachers sitting silently and the students colour-coded by uniform, I escaped down various streets I had yet to venture. Stumbling across some ruggedly enchanting properties, I became more comfortable with my neighbourhood. Botanical nurseries lined one block, eventually enticing me to enter for a whiff of their most beautiful inhabitants. 

 

Finally arriving at an air-conditioned haven, I spent too many hours shopping in the Diana Department Store. After perusing through the pricey designer labels on the top floors, I discovered that the market downstairs had prices at least ten times lower. I decided that this will be the prime location for teaching attire, as well as the voluminous night markets. As I have yet to attend, my purchases only remain at a few, but I have a feeling that will quickly change this weekend. The evening brought bar hopping with Owen, Kag, Kim and James who are quite entertaining after a few. A late night resulted in a drowsy morning, but it's always worth it isn't it?

Wknd 1

My first weekend alone in my entire life was a daunting thought. However, my second mom (Lori McGoldrick) is always looking out for me and knows a couple who lives just outside of Hat Yai. What a small world it is, John McGoldrick worked and skydived with Owen decades ago before he moved to Thailand. He's been living here for sixteen years because he met a Thai girl (isn't that always the story?) Kag who is a master chef. Lucky me to have contacts before I even moved to this new city, and they are wonderful people. After meeting briefly for lunch at a noodle shop on Saturday, we went to the airport to pick up Owen's neice, Kim, who he hasn't seen in twenty years. Kim and James got married last week and came to Thailand for their honeymoon, stopping in Hat Yai to visit Owen before heading up to Phuket. The whole bunch picked me up on Sunday morning to go to the nearby Tone Nga Chang Waterfall. There were blue skies and brilliant sunshine during our entire drive, but the minute we stepped out of the car it started to pour. With all of us being used to the rain, we hiked up to a few of the look-outs and snapped a few photos instead of going swimming as planned. 

Being damp but still warm, we stopped for lunch at a hole-in-the-wall on the side of the street, and I've never been so skeptical. Kag eventually assured us it was okay and we suprisingly enjoyed a delicious, much needed meal. Arriving at Owen and Kag's beautiful house a short while later, we were greeted by their cats and dogs. In heaven, I played with them until we ventured out again, but to Songkhla this time.

After meeting Kag's sisters at their separate but side-by-side restaurants (family conflict), Kag stayed to prepare our dinner while Owen took us to Monkey Hill. There were hundreds of little rascals just wandering or hanging around and eating the snacks that tourists buy from the strategically placed "monkey food" vendors.

 

We then took a tram up to the top of the hill, which overlooks all of Songkhla city. You can even see Hat Yai in the distance. The view was breathtaking to say the least and the monkeys enjoy it too, one in particular venturing all the way up to the top of the highest tower, King Kong style. 

Then a short drive led us to the pier where all of the fishing boats were heading out for their evening catch. Having worked up another appetite, Kag brought out dish by dish by dish, all mouthwatering and leaving us wanting more even though we were stuffed. It takes a lot to beat my all-time favourite, Pad Thai, but her massaman curry rotis took first place. It was likely I was drooling the whole cab-ride home, but I'll definitely be craving those for days haha.

Getting Settled

At first I was wary about the apartment my recruiter had arranged for me to stay in because I had no kitchen, but my mind was quickly changed. I learned that it's really common for people to simply eat out because it's so cheap, or to just use electric woks. I also realized that the location couldn't possibly be better, only a two minute walk to my school and on the most popular street in Hat Yai. Being able to zip home during my breaks is a huge bonus, as well as having a wide selection of restaurants and bars to choose from. The "mansion" owner is an absolute sweetheart and has unnecessarily gone out of her way to accommodate me. I have air-conditioning and cute little balcony, both of which are not easy to come by. 

My room

The view from my balcony

Rent is ridiculously inexpensive, just like everything else in Thailand, so my overall expenses are very minimal. I filled my fridge for about $15 from one of the largest grocery stores in Hat Yai, a convenient ten minute walk away. On my way, I stumbled upon one of the biggest Buddhas I've ever seen, which would've proven me blind if I missed it. There were dozens of other statues at the base, all identical and representing important figures who have passed. It's crazy to think about how much we miss when we're in a rush, so I'm learning to slow down and take it all in because otherwise life will just fly by.

The Beginning

It all began in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand, when I made the last minute decision to accept a job down in Southern Thailand. I had been applying for months to many different locations, but was waiting for the perfect one. Minimal time was spent job hunting when I was traveling with my family for the two previous weeks, but after I received an offer down in Hat Yai a successful skype interview was the last piece to the puzzle. I immediately bought a cheap plane ticket down to Bangkok to retrieve my huge suitcase full of supplies that'd been waiting for me for weeks, as well as a connecting flight later that day. Flying over the flooded city was definitely an eye-opener, seeing much more immersed land than I had presumed. But after arriving safely and then departing soon thereafter, I made it down to Hat Yai late Sunday night. With no time for anything but sleep, I was in the classroom on Monday morning teaching fourty kids. Another fourty were infront of me in the afternoon and I ended my first day with an overdue chat with the director. Not speaking much English, he could only express how very impressed he was that I made my way across the whole country in 24 hours on such short notice. Proving a good first impression, I got off to a suprisingly good start. The week only got better from there, meeting my extremely kind students who desire to spend as much time as possible with me. I understood that they simply want as much exposure to English as they can get, and I couldn't think of a better candidate myself lol.

The students at my school lined up for the daily anthem